We woke up freezing cold, but relieved that we'd survived another night in the Oregon wilderness (just past Florence) without being attacked by a ferocious wild bear.
Back on the road riding through a beautiful forest the sun is up but its not penetrating through the tall pines, and even though I've got two shirts, a long sleeve shirt and a big jacket on it's freezing.
A couple of hours later and we pass a couple of cyclists, the wind is in our back, the sun is shining and it feels great. For a while, the wind is perfectly behind us, and we're going around 35kms an hour on a flat road, barely even trying. Amazing!
The wind still behind us, smiles on our faces we ride up a beautiful old bridge. Riding down the other side someone coming in the opposite direction yells out at us and then, hocking, a burst of spittle comes shooting towards me. Fortunately I manage to miss most of it. A moment later someone behind beeps their truck horn (who has a truck horn in a car!?!?), and then, thirty seconds after that we get a 'f*%# off' blasted into our ears.
Not a moment too soon and a massive nail lurches into Shanna's tire, going all the way through to the other side. Sitting on the side of the road I figure things are looking up, they could only get better from here... right?
Over the next 10 kilometers on a wide four lane road with plenty of room for everyone the story doesn't change much. But, when we leave the towns and head into the forest once again, to our great relief it all stops.
Things really do start getting better when we meet a really nice English couple, who we ride with until we get to a campsite just off the coast in Bandon. Open fires burning, dogs barking, massive bus like campervans lurking in the shadows, and while the sun sets we put up our tent on a delicious piece of grass that looks like it was made just for us.
Sam and Shanna Evans are from Melbourne, Australia