The sound of roosters trying to outdo each other woke us at 4am. The cold aircon woke us at 5am. The alarm woke us at 6am. Our legs still were still tired, but it was a feeling we were getting used to.
Dragging ourselves out of bed, we ate the muffins, bananas and milk we’d bought at the markets the night before and packed our things. I didn’t think I could make it far that day, but we agreed that if we made it the 125km to Chumphon, we could have a rest day.
The only reason I was able to drag myself across the necessary kilometers was by staying in Sam’s slipstream for most of the day. He was tired and sore too, but he did the work for both of us. We rode all day, stopping occasionally at rest stops for drinks and food.
Just before the turn-off to Chumphon, where there was no doubt many hotels to stay, we saw on the GPS that there was a hotel 23km further along the road. We decided that rather than detouring 9km off the main road to the town, and then 9km back again, we’d just keep going and stay further down the road. Plus, there was a KFC further along and the thought of real fried chicken was too tempting.
These last 23km the hills returned. And twilight set in, so the dogs starting barking and lurking in the bushes again. We finally made it to the hotel, which was actually situated as part of a roadside rest area, to find out they were full. But just down the road was a ‘resort’ that had a room.
It was a long, tiring day. And in the end KFC told us they were out of chicken (how can KFC be out of chicken?!) so we had to settle for fish fingers and spicy mini drumsticks. But we had made a huge accomplishment in how far we had ridden, and we were happy.